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Gucci Woman’s SS 2017

Alessandro Michele continues to enchant with his dream worlds

The invitation for the fashion show was a three dimensional theatre. Inside there were the animals and flowers which have already enlivened the so-called Gucci Garden for some time. This highly imaginative place was created from the visionary mind of the creative director of the label, Alessandro Michele. The hall is a refined privée with small benches covered in matelassé fabric and 250,000 tiny mirrors, many of which are suspended and reflect a soft pink light. The catwalk is a curved runway between the benches, bordered by his signature web of red and green which is outlined by stars. The music is ethnic in style and it is preceded by the chirping of crickets, a remix of La Traversée by Armand Amar.

― Alessandro Michele continues to enchant with his dream worlds

The collection (photo vogue.com here), has strong references to the 70s and 80s, but it remains extremely varied and influenced by other trends. It brings with it iconic elements, children of the new era of the casa fiorentina: vibrant colours, prints, writing (even in red on immaculate, soft fur), embroidery, sequins, ruffles, appliqué, flowers and animals, opulent fabrics and a lot of craftsmanship. Novelties are the flat shoes with very high soles which even cause the models to have problems maintaining their balance; again male and female models parade together with a fluidity of gender, a truly innovation introduced by Michele, which have now become normal for most fashion houses.

Looks which are also well-accessorized, and which, departing from Gucci’s famous leather goods, also include enormous glasses and earrings, fans, leather and metal epaulettes attached to the shoulders with straps, necklaces and huge rings. For the head, there are hats, satin or laquered caps, foulards, and bows to tie back hair which is often left soft for a very relaxed look, or else it is very curly or frizzy, cut in the Swinging London style or set in big perms. Make-up is more than nude, with clear skin and a complete absence of colour, in order to emphasise an androgyny which often results in models who are perhaps excessively thin appearing genderless, in an era in which fashion is instead trying to construct a more positive image of the body.

Go to vogue.com for the backstage and details gallery of the looks.

Valentina Monti
21/9/2016