It all started with the invitation to the show: an orange timer with a countdown to the catwalk.
And yesterday, finally, the presentation of the Autumn/Winter 2018 Collection in a surgical atmosphere: “I wanted operating tables because for me they perfectly represent the creative act of inventing possibilities. My job, and that of everyone else, is a surgical job” (Alessandro Michele, Creative Director at Gucci). And, indeed, the show opens with models carrying a reproduction of their severed head under their arm, or hybrid creatures, chameleons and dragon whelps, in a brilliant dichotomy of man/woman, human/alien.
Gender fluidity and ethnic touches are more accentuated than ever before. A collection that follows and pushes even further the imaginary world that Michele began to design three years ago, at the helm of Gucci. Models whose gender is often ambiguous, with effeminate male models wearing the same accessories as the women (jewellery, headgear, rhinestones) and extremely androgynous female models. There are references to China (in the cut of the clothes and pagoda-shaped headgear), to the orient (turbans and veils) and to Russia (prints and scarves tied tightly beneath the chin to frame the face), in an ethnic mixture that perfectly embodies the melting-pot of modern society.
Greater volume than usual, and striking trekking shoes with added crystals that distinguish the entire collection. As usual, hair is in the background, hidden by hats, turbans, balaclavas, scarves and complicated headgear made from rhinestones and omnipresent crystals.
Among the quotes, the Gucci logo in the SEGA videogames font, the logos of Paramount Pictures and the Major League USA baseball teams.
Alessandro Di Giacomo + Valentina Monti