It started in the early ’90s in Rotterdam, Holland, from a mixture of Feyenoord fans and suburban kids who started to mix for dancing and hardcore music (powerful and rapid techno which goes from 160 to 200 bpm and more) and to contrast with their contemporaries from the “cooler” Amsterdam. They call it gabber, and beyond the music, they are interested in an aesthetic of shaved heads, tracksuits for dancing comfortably all night and iconic brands, especially Italian ones, like Fila, Sergio Tacchini and Diadora, but also Lonsdale, Fred Perry and without fail Adidas. On their feet, the standard Nike Air Max, but also Vans, Adidas and Puma customised by the biggest contemporary designers.
Alexander Wang X Adidas OriginalHeads shaved at the sides or all over, bomber jacket, bare chest and chain, sports top, net stockings and shorts for the women, the gabber phenomenon is a subculture which in Europe concerns mainly the urban working class, made up of suburbs and cultural peripheries, aesthetically akin to hooligans and skinheads, but which rejects the political connotations. In the last few years, however, it has been appropriated by many luxury brands in collaboration with sports labels: above all Supreme with Louis Vuitton, Adidas with Alexander Wang and Marcelo Burlon with Kappa.
Valentina Monti / Alessandro Di Giacomo