An architecture within the architecture, Nicolas Ghesquière presents the umpteenth jewel collection for Autumn/Winter 2016/17 in a beautiful setting within the Louis Vuitton Foundation: with black and white geometric floor and polygonal columns of splintered glass to create a labyrinthine path between the spectators. The atmospheres echo the late ’70s, early’ 80s, as in an abandoned nightclub, the soundtrack that sets it off is ‘Street Hassle’, a punk-melodic ballad by Lou Reed; it begins with violins, followed by electric guitars, divided for 11 minutes into three sections: the first tells of a woman who attends an escort, the second a drug dealer who tells his friends of the death of a girl in his apartment, the third is a requiem by Lou Reed of death and love.
Ghesquière carefully chooses the soundtracks of his shows: as such, the year of the track is 1978, like the references to a collection that goes beyond the ’70s, elegantly citing the 80’s: with plenty of geometric shapes, zippered mini skirts with exposed midriffs, leather pants with colourful over-sized sweaters, tight jackets that billow about the hips, boots that are just above the ankle, with a punk touch, short sleeves and almost shoulder-length gloves, clean-lined and geometric stiff leather bodices, long shiny earrings, a profusion of sequins and transparent fabrics for the evening, with slip dresses underneath. Hair is worn either very natural, or slicked back very sleek; make up maintains the nude look, but with a glossy wine-coloured lipstick to exaggerate the lips. With his typical sophisticated elegance, Ghesquière alludes to and reworks that which remains of glamour: the beauty and hedonism of then, thirty years later.